I have made several different home made paints. Our living room is a lime/clay paint over earth plaster. In another room I made a wheat paste/clay paint. Here is are a bunch of recipes that I have collected from lots of different sources on the web, magazines, and word of mouth.
Basic Flour Paint Flour paint is among the simplest and most versatile of all homemade paints. It can be applied to most interior surfaces, and the proportions don’t have to be as exact as for other kinds of paint. You can use many types of grain flour as the binder, but wheat flour is the most common choice.
Flour paint typically uses clay as the filler, but any combination of finely ground inert materials, such as chalk, mica, marble, limestone or silica will work. If you want a textured surface, use more coarsely screened materials. Just make sure you’ll still be able to apply the finished product with a brush!
Flour paint is too thick for use with a roller, and it tends to be hard on brushes. Choose inexpensive brushes with natural bristles — nothing fancy — and stock up. When first applying flour paint, the brush marks will be evident. To remove the marks, wait until the paint has begun to dry and smooth over with a damp sponge or clean, damp brush. Going over the surface again when the paint has become leathery will also help reveal the mica or other filler.
Yields 1 1/2 quarts
1 cup flour 5 1/2 cups cold water 1 cup screened clay filler (clay can be purchased in a wide variety of colors) 1/2 cup additional powder filler, such as mica
Mix flour with 2 cups cold water, whisking to remove lumps. Bring 11/2 cups water to boil, and then add the flour water from Step 1.Turn heat to low, stirring until thick paste develops. Remove from heat. Dilute the paste with 2 cups water, a little at a time. In a separate work bowl, combine clay with powder filler. Add filler mixture to diluted flour paste until desired consistency is achieved.
Natural oil paints typically are made with linseed oil and a natural solvent, such as pure turpentine or citrus thinner. Choose raw linseed oil or linseed stand oil, which has been heated to a high temperature, making it more durable. (Avoid boiled linseed oil, which can contain a variety of ingredients that speed drying time, but may be hazardous to your health.)
When painting bare wood, the finished surface will look much better if you wet the wood with warm water and sand it before painting. Priming helps seal wood against moisture and creates a better bond with the finish. This is especially important if the paint is intended to cover the wood’s grain.
Basic Oil Primer Your surface will be ready for paint about 48 hours after the primer has dried. It is difficult to provide precise recipes for oil paints, because pigments absorb oil to varying degrees. Pour several tablespoons of linseed oil in a bowl and add pigment, a little at a time, until a doughy paste forms. Then you can add more oil just until the mixture flows. Next, add solvent until the paint reaches your desired consistency. Pour the finished mixture through a strainer to remove lumps.
1 pint linseed oil- 1 pint natural solvent (mineral spirits or citrasovl) Apply a thin coat along the wood grain. Remove excess with a cloth. Apply a second coat after first is completely dry (48 hours between coats)
Basic Oil Glaze -An oil glaze can serve many purposes. Sometimes you will want to put a glaze over flour or milk paints to increase water resistance. Oil glazes also make nice wood stains, with or without added color. Oil Glaze Recipe (yield 2 cups) 1 tsp pigment- 1 tsp powdered chalk- 1 cup linseed oil- 2/3 cup natural solvent Dissolve 1 tsp pigment and 1 tsp powdered chalk in 1/2 cup linseed oil. Stir in remaining 1/2 cup linseed oil.
Milk Paint 1 cup powdered nonfat milk, 1 cup water, powdered pigment. Mix milk powder and water. Add natural paint pigments to color, if desired. Too much pigment will lessen the durability of the paint. Dries a glossy finish. After the paint has dried 3-4 hours you may top coat with varnish, oil finish, pure tung oil, lacquer, or wax.
Casein Paint Adjustments
After mixing your paint, test it on a small area of your surface and let it dry completely. If it doesn’t spread easily, add some water. If it dusts, add more binder. If it’s too thin, add more filler. If the color isn’t rich enough, add more crushed pigment. When making your own paint, it is important to experiment, test, experiment, and test some more. Keep it fun! If you play for a while first, you’re sure to end up with a beautiful combination of rich colors and interesting textures. For best results, clean all surfaces thoroughly before painting. Homemade paints contain food ingredients and should be used soon after mixing. You can refrigerate them, but the binding ability may diminish.
It may be difficult to create exactly the same color over and over again. Try to mix as much paint as you can reasonably use in one work session. Exercise caution when using linseed oil. Crumpled oil-soaked cloths can spontaneously combust, so be sure to wash all cloths and other materials before disposal.
Exercise caution with all powdered and caustic materials, especially lime. Wear gloves and goggles.
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